The view from the roadway up to Ballycarbery Castle.

As we drove through the charming little port town of Portmagee, the misty air was accented with the most hypnotic scent. It was a scent that lured us away from all other senses, demanding full attention until it had made itself known…peat. If only there were a way I could share that moment with you here, but my words and images fall short this time.

The next day, one of the most anticipated destinations on our trip to Ireland was to be Skellig Michael, a rugged island 7.2 miles off the southwest coast. Once a Christian monastery, possibly established as early as the 6th century and inhabited until the 12th, this World Heritage site became even more popular after scenes for Star Wars: The Force Awakens and Star Wars: Episode VIII were filmed there. We had reserved seats on a boat to the island months in advance and had come to Portmagee to confirm our trip. Unfortunately, there is no controlling the weather. Captain Casey phoned during breakfast the next morning to tell us the weather had deteriorated forcing him to cancel our trip. I was disappointed to the point of tears, yet some things work out exactly as they should. This would be the first of several times fate would guide us in the proper direction.

Our generous hosts, Tom and Ellish, at the Sea Breeze B & B in Cahersiveen mapped out a day of local sights for us that made it one of the most memorable in spite of the storm. Rather than spending a whole day traveling to and from one tiny island, we spent the day traveling around the Iveragh peninsula, part of the Ring of Kerry.

The wind and rain did not keep us from Valentia Island, accessible by bridge, where we visited St. Brendan’s Well and Knight’s Town. Brendan, The Voyager, is one of the Twelve Apostles of Ireland.

St. Brendan’s Well on Valentia Island.

In Knight’s Town, we stepped through our first kissing gate into a cemetery where old knights of Ireland are buried.

The kissing gate into the cemetery at Knightstown. These gates are everywhere in Ireland, built so people can pass through but not livestock. The gate swings open enough so you can step into the c-shape on the opposite side, step past and swing gate closed.

The ruins of Ballycarbery Castle stood alone on a hilltop above the rolling green countryside.

Last but certainly not least, Cahergal Fort is a breathtaking stacked stone ring fort built so meticulously that it stands proud and strong atop its own hill with a view I shall never forget.

Cahergal Fort near Cahersiveen, County Kerry, Ireland. This stone ring fort was in the middle of a pasture. We had to shoo a herd of heifers off the path so we could get to it. What is totally amazing is that there are others much like it on the Emerald Isle.  

Even in the pounding rain, this was the most beautiful land I have ever walked upon. And if I am blessed enough to ever return to Ireland again in this lifetime, I look forward to revisiting the enchanting Ring of Kerry. Maybe I will even make it out to Skellig Michael. If a return trip is not possible in my lifetime, you can bet I will be doing a fly-by on my way to the life after this.